Oman - Mustangs and Mountains

Oman was not at all what I expected - not that I had any specific expectations but it really didnt look like anything I had in my mind about the country. Upon leaving however, I think that in some ways this is one of the friendliest places in the Middle East. We arrived from Dubai taking the 7 hr bus overland. The border crossing is relatively straightforward, queue at a dusty truck stop outpost on the UAE side for an exit stamp, then unload your luggage from the bus for a customs inspection on the Oman side. The bus then takes you down the road a few miles to the actual border post where you enter a palatial immigration building for your visa stamp. Entering as Australians we got a visa on the spot - no fee. Then the long haul along the coast to Muscat. I had prearranged a rental car at the Seeb airport - the bus wasnt going there, but the drivers assistant stopped the bus at a local taxi stand on the main road and helped arrange us a taxi with another passenger who was airport bound. Our first exposure to Omani hospitality, it was great of him to do this and not just drop us on the corner to fend for ourselves.



Our hotel was the Corniche Hotel in Mutrah - not a fancy place but we came to really enjoy this hotel and the fishing port we were based in. The nighttime inn keeper wasnt overly friendly, but the daytime guy was a real pleasure to deal with - Moin was his name.

Daytime brought us view of the harbour, and a walk down the corniche brought us to the Souq. The souq in this town is really fantastic - it winds its way through many corridors and back streets, but has a wide promenade which is great to walk through after say the crazy markets in Mali. Oman is known for its daggars - curved thick bladed items with intricate silver work on the scabbard. Its even on the tail of Oman Air planes as the national insignia. We spent many hours perusing these daggars - the number of rings on the scabbard designate the rank in society of the owner, 7 rings being the royal family. The daggars are rights of passage for young men who are presented with one upon coming of age.

Highlights:

- Watching a fisherman cutting off shark's fins in the Muttrah harbour
- Driving in the mountains and at 100plus mph on 4 lane highways with no other cars on them (in a buzz box)
- Breaking into a closed fort
- Walking the souqs and talking to the fascinating people who live here