This really is a beautiful place. The riche are obviously pushing everyone else out but there is a very relaxed vibe in these parts. Lugano was lovely - high mountains diving down into placid lakes.
Italian coffee is undoubtedly the standard by which all coffee should be judged. Interestingly there is only one type of Italian coffee. No French roast this, Guatemalan that - just plain coffee. I was toying with the idea of cutting back but after this week I'm reevaluating. Oh and a culture tip. Italians think drinking coffee with milk in the afternoon or after dinner is "disgusting". Heavy, not good. Hence a cafe (espresso) in the afternoon but not a latte or cappuccino. Those are morning drinks.
Riding here was a treat. The Madonna del Ghisallo ride was magical. The Passo del Mortirolo was just a ridiculously steep challenge. My climbing legs are back - the pace is lacking but the strength is there.
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