Egypt - Ill Cut YOUR throat

Cairo for 3 days, Luxor for 3, then Aswan for 2. All are amazing places - even Abu Simbel with its 260km convoy ride and 3am start is worth the hassle.



Highlights:
- Getting into a fight over bus seats with Hungarian and French tourists on the bus back from Abu Simbel.
- "Im a criminal - Ill cut your throat" - from a TShirt salesman around the pyramids when I told him what he could do with his tshirts. My response - "No you wont - HAHAHA". In hindsight I wish Id grabbed him and hauled him off to the tourist police (which are everywhere in all 3 cities) for a night in jail for harassing a tourist.
- Lunch at a little cafe in Aswan, surrounded by locals and watching educational TV programs on mathematics.
- Walking from the Valley of the Kings over the hills to the Temple of Hatchupsut
- Eating Koshary from a food stand on the outskirts of Cairo
- Standing on the top of a minaret at Ibn Tolon mosque

Philae Template - this thing was moved in its entirety from one island to another when the Aswan Dam was built.




Abu Simbel


Luxor Temple at Night

Oman - Mustangs and Mountains

Oman was not at all what I expected - not that I had any specific expectations but it really didnt look like anything I had in my mind about the country. Upon leaving however, I think that in some ways this is one of the friendliest places in the Middle East. We arrived from Dubai taking the 7 hr bus overland. The border crossing is relatively straightforward, queue at a dusty truck stop outpost on the UAE side for an exit stamp, then unload your luggage from the bus for a customs inspection on the Oman side. The bus then takes you down the road a few miles to the actual border post where you enter a palatial immigration building for your visa stamp. Entering as Australians we got a visa on the spot - no fee. Then the long haul along the coast to Muscat. I had prearranged a rental car at the Seeb airport - the bus wasnt going there, but the drivers assistant stopped the bus at a local taxi stand on the main road and helped arrange us a taxi with another passenger who was airport bound. Our first exposure to Omani hospitality, it was great of him to do this and not just drop us on the corner to fend for ourselves.



Our hotel was the Corniche Hotel in Mutrah - not a fancy place but we came to really enjoy this hotel and the fishing port we were based in. The nighttime inn keeper wasnt overly friendly, but the daytime guy was a real pleasure to deal with - Moin was his name.

Daytime brought us view of the harbour, and a walk down the corniche brought us to the Souq. The souq in this town is really fantastic - it winds its way through many corridors and back streets, but has a wide promenade which is great to walk through after say the crazy markets in Mali. Oman is known for its daggars - curved thick bladed items with intricate silver work on the scabbard. Its even on the tail of Oman Air planes as the national insignia. We spent many hours perusing these daggars - the number of rings on the scabbard designate the rank in society of the owner, 7 rings being the royal family. The daggars are rights of passage for young men who are presented with one upon coming of age.

Highlights:

- Watching a fisherman cutting off shark's fins in the Muttrah harbour
- Driving in the mountains and at 100plus mph on 4 lane highways with no other cars on them (in a buzz box)
- Breaking into a closed fort
- Walking the souqs and talking to the fascinating people who live here

Back in the West

Just a quick note as Im back in Perth, Western Australia, for some R&R before Trip Part 2 gets going. Ive managed to download all photos from the camera, and will spend some time consolidating them and adding some much needed commentary to them, and this blog. Ive taken a lot of notes while travelling - for my future reference and for future travellers, so hopefully Ill get a chance to update the blog with that info soon.

The scar from Timbuktu is healing nicely into a momento. Eating is a pleasure - I never knew how good toast was after not having it for 3 months. I had a Starbucks in Dubai on the way thru - mmmmm.

A Souvenir from Timbuktu

Just got back from a whirlwind trip to Timbuktu - out 1 day all day in a 4WD, 1 days in town, then 1 day driving back. Timbuktu is really not that worth it to visit other than the allure of saying that youve been to this remote outpost in the world that carries the mystique of ancient times. The markets are interesting and sitting atop a sand dune on the edge of the Sahara watching sheep being herded and camels guiding tourists around the dunes at sunset was nice. We bought a Tuareg blue cape off a guys back for 6000CFA - he didnt speak French or English and seemed more amazed that we were giving him a bunch of small coins than a 5000CFA note, but I can say I have an original cape now, not some factory produced tourist rubbish.

I also have 3 stitches in my left thumb after an argument with a car door - which will heal up nicely into a great souvenir and story from Tombouktu. Ill never forget the nurse saying "brave boy" in faltering English as she drove the needle in without any anesthetic ....

Pictures of the dunes and ferry if you click the photo below ...

Dogon Country, Mali

Im currently in Severe (pronounced Sevaray) just outside of Mopti in Mali. Just got back from 2 nights in the Dogon Country - a fascinating place and people. Camped on the roof of the village camps each night, looking at an amazing view of the stars without any light pollution to dull them. Used a squat toilet and a bucket for a shower.

Currently staying at Macs Refuge in Severe - a great hotel with a wonderful host and excellent meals.

Click on the photo of the Mosque in Kani Kombole for more photos from Dogon ....

Monkey business

Click on photo for more shots of the Monkey.

This little guy was on the Fetish Island in Cassamance - he was very friendly as you can see ...

Ah Cassamance ...

Click on the photo for more from this set

The Cassamance Region is in southern Senegal, an area of white sand beaches and a river delta that borders Guinea Bissau. Its really beautiful here - and the islands that can only be reached by Pirogue are really the standout. The fishing village of Elinkine, the Ile de Karabane and the "fetish" island where the remnants of old sacrifices under large Baobab trees can be found. I really found Cassamance to be a stunningly beautiful and relaxing place to spend some time.